新疆自駕之旅二

　　到達烏(wu)魯(lu)(lu)木(mu)齊(qi)已(yi)(yi)經是周(zhou)六晚上(shang)11點40分，出了機(ji)場(chang)(chang)，打電話給(gei)朋友，他已(yi)(yi)經于下午2點先我(wo)到達烏(wu)魯(lu)(lu)木(mu)齊(qi)。已(yi)(yi)經在來機(ji)場(chang)(chang)的(de)路上(shang)，由于新科的(de)gps導(dao)航居(ju)然找不到烏(wu)魯(lu)(lu)木(mu)齊(qi)機(ji)場(chang)(chang)，無法設置，開錯地方了，暈(yun)，等了約一刻鐘(zhong)。朋友駛(shi)一輛白色別克而來，上(shang)車直奔(ben)旅(lv)館歇息不提。

　　第二天一早，7點(dian)起床(chuang)，退(tui)房，上路。新疆的(de)7點(dian)，相當于杭州(zhou)的(de)5點(dian)。許多商店尚未開門，好不容易找到一家小店，買了一箱礦泉水、一箱牛(niu)奶、一箱八寶粥、4個(ge)方便面，加滿汽油，呵呵，糧草既(ji)備(bei)，立即開拔。設定導航，第一個(ge)景點(dian)就是(shi)一號冰川。

　　據攻略記載：一(yi)號冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)是(shi)(shi)烏(wu)魯(lu)(lu)木齊河(he)的(de)(de)(de)(de)源頭(tou)，位(wei)于市區西南125公(gong)里(li)處(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)天(tian)格爾山(shan)中，海拔3860米(mi)(mi)，(也有(you)說4000多米(mi)(mi))長約2.2公(gong)里(li)，平均寬(kuan)500米(mi)(mi)，面積1.8平方公(gong)里(li)，其(qi)周圍分布著150多條(也有(you)說70多條)大(da)小不一(yi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)現(xian)代(dai)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)。由(you)于現(xian)代(dai)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)類集(ji)中，冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)地(di)貌和(he)沉積物非常典型，古冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)遺跡保存完整清(qing)晰，所(suo)以一(yi)號冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)有(you)“冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)活化(hua)石(shi)”之譽，成為我國(guo)觀測研(yan)(yan)究現(xian)代(dai)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)和(he)古冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)遺跡的(de)(de)(de)(de)最(zui)佳地(di)點。　乘車(che)沿216國(guo)道南行，便可(ke)到達一(yi)號冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)近側，這(zhe)里(li)有(you)淡(dan)藍而(er)晶瑩的(de)(de)(de)(de)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)銀瀑，在冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)舌前，科(ke)研(yan)(yan)工作者鑿成的(de)(de)(de)(de)80余(yu)米(mi)(mi)長的(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)洞，如童話中白雪公(gong)主(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)銀殿。四周山(shan)崖上(shang)(shang)有(you)旱獺出沒，運氣好還能看到雪蓮(lian)。往返途中，可(ke)飽覽天(tian)山(shan)垂直(zhi)景觀帶(dai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)獨特風光。從后峽繼續往南行即(ji)達烏(wu)魯(lu)(lu)木齊河(he)的(de)(de)(de)(de)河(he)源區，這(zhe)里(li)離市中心120余(yu)公(gong)里(li)，海拔 3740-4480米(mi)(mi)，雪線平均高(gao)度(du)為4055米(mi)(mi)，這(zhe)里(li)有(you)1-5號五條現(xian)代(dai)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)，最(zui)大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)天(tian)格爾峰(feng)北坡的(de)(de)(de)(de)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)號冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)，它是(shi)(shi)世(shi)界上(shang)(shang)離大(da)都市最(zui)近的(de)(de)(de)(de)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)。1959年(nian)，中國(guo)科(ke)學院蘭(lan)州冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)凍土(tu)研(yan)(yan)究所(suo)在此(ci)建立(li)了天(tian)山(shan)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)研(yan)(yan)究站(zhan)，這(zhe)是(shi)(shi)我國(guo)唯一(yi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)在國(guo)際上(shang)(shang)開(kai)放(fang)交(jiao)流(liu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)高(gao)山(shan)冰(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)川(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)研(yan)(yan)究站(zhan)。

　　驅車(che)(che)(che)出烏魯(lu)木齊，沿216國道行駛。廣袤(mao)的(de)(de)(de)原野，車(che)(che)(che)道兩旁(pang)高(gao)大的(de)(de)(de)楊樹(shu)，遠處積滿(man)積雪的(de)(de)(de)天山(shan)，使我們兩個來自南方的(de)(de)(de)江浙之地(di)的(de)(de)(de)人激動不已(yi)。途(tu)經白楊溝，停車(che)(che)(che)拍(pai)(pai)照。一開車(che)(che)(che)門，寒風(feng)撲面(mian)，胡(hu)風(feng)如刀;趕緊拍(pai)(pai)幾張上車(che)(che)(che)趕路。(待續)

　　過白楊溝不(bu)(bu)遠，車(che)子進入山(shan)區，盤山(shan)公(gong)(gong)路(lu)(lu)蜿蜒而(er)上，不(bu)(bu)時有(you)(you)注意滾石的警(jing)告(gao)標記(ji)，峽谷(gu)的河道(dao)，沒水(shui)(shui)，只有(you)(you)冰(bing)，許(xu)多的山(shan)谷(gu)流水(shui)(shui)，不(bu)(bu)知(zhi)(zhi)何時凝(ning)成冰(bing)瀑(pu)。距離烏魯木(mu)齊(qi)大(da)約40多公(gong)(gong)里，道(dao)路(lu)(lu)開(kai)(kai)始維修，柏油路(lu)(lu)結束，走(zou)一(yi)段砂石路(lu)(lu)。車(che)速也隨(sui)之降低，第一(yi)天(tian)在新疆開(kai)(kai)車(che)，還很(hen)新鮮，對(dui)新疆最大(da)的感觸是(shi)(shi)(shi)村(cun)莊(zhuang)(zhuang)較(jiao)少(shao)，幾十公(gong)(gong)里才見(jian)(jian)到一(yi)個小村(cun)鎮，第二天(tian)才知(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)見(jian)(jian)的村(cun)莊(zhuang)(zhuang)更少(shao)，這是(shi)(shi)(shi)后(hou)話暫且不(bu)(bu)提(ti)。由(you)于走(zou)時匆(cong)忙，未買新疆地(di)圖(tu)，僅有(you)(you)巴(ba)掌大(da)的導航儀，《新疆行知(zhi)(zhi)書》也沒有(you)(you)新疆完整的地(di)圖(tu)，所以不(bu)(bu)知(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)這條老(lao)路(lu)(lu)通往(wang)何處?要不(bu)(bu)要走(zou)回頭路(lu)(lu)?開(kai)(kai)了許(xu)久，感覺還有(you)(you)一(yi)半的路(lu)(lu)程，路(lu)(lu)況(kuang)不(bu)(bu)好，不(bu)(bu)知(zhi)(zhi)何處是(shi)(shi)(shi)頭，頓時萌生退意，好不(bu)(bu)容(rong)易見(jian)(jian)到修路(lu)(lu)工，問(wen)(wen)一(yi)號冰(bing)川所在，回答(da)一(yi)直前(qian)開(kai)(kai)，過冰(bing)川路(lu)(lu)往(wang)何處?回答(da)說：不(bu)(bu)知(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)，到后(hou)峽鎮上問(wen)(wen)問(wen)(wen)。過后(hou)峽又是(shi)(shi)(shi)柏油路(lu)(lu)，哥兩(liang)商量還是(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)路(lu)(lu)開(kai)(kai)吧，冰(bing)川在召喚，雪(xue)蓮在綻放，去吧!驅車(che)盤旋而(er)上。

　　越往(wang)上走(zou)，離(li)積雪越近，離(li)冰(bing)川(chuan)也越近。終于來(lai)到導航儀所(suo)說的一(yi)號(hao)冰(bing)川(chuan)附近，有一(yi)氣(qi)(qi)象臺(tai)。前(qian)面的車(che)子好像在綁防滑鏈，我們下(xia)車(che)詢問。一(yi)號(hao)冰(bing)川(chuan)離(li)216國道，還(huan)(huan)有4公里。冰(bing)雪覆蓋，我們的車(che)，無法到達(da)，必須行(xing)走(zou)。問氣(qi)(qi)象臺(tai)工作人員，目前(qian)海(hai)拔多(duo)少?回(hui)(hui)答是(shi)3800多(duo)米，不(bu)知(zhi)是(shi)不(bu)是(shi)心理(li)原因，頓時感到有些(xie)氣(qi)(qi)喘，問前(qian)面216國道，去往(wang)何方(fang)，回(hui)(hui)答是(shi)去庫爾(er)勒，還(huan)(huan)有200多(duo)公里，與我們要(yao)去的天池，方(fang)向相(xiang)反，還(huan)(huan)得回(hui)(hui)烏(wu)魯木齊。暈，拍幾(ji)張照(zhao)片，算是(shi)一(yi)號(hao)冰(bing)川(chuan)，趕緊沿原路返回(hui)(hui)。

　　返回烏(wu)魯木齊的路(lu)程，比來(lai)時要快，下山(shan)至(zhi)后峽，一(yi)(yi)路(lu)只有汽(qi)車的聲音(yin)，由于高度落差的原(yuan)因，耳朵有如飛機(ji)下降時的難受，刺(ci)痛(tong)，也一(yi)(yi)度的輕微失聰，聽(ting)不(bu)到(dao)汽(qi)車馬達的聲音(yin)。到(dao)后峽，找一(yi)(yi)家(jia)小店，吃(chi)一(yi)(yi)碗新疆(jiang)面(mian)條(tiao)，5元一(yi)(yi)碗，朋友(you)在后來(lai)的幾天中認(ren)為這家(jia)的面(mian)條(tiao)是最好(hao)吃(chi)的面(mian)條(tiao)。

　　回到白(bai)楊溝，又拍了(le)幾張，天氣已經沒有早晨的寒冷。

　　回烏魯木齊(qi)上(shang)高(gao)速，過(guo)米(mi)泉，高(gao)速公路(lu)轉(zhuan)111省道(dao)到天池。天池的門票90元，現在是淡季，自(zi)駕車可以開到山上(shang)，于是驅車上(shang)山。

　　說(shuo)起天池，就不(bu)能(neng)不(bu)說(shuo)到天山。

　　巍巍天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)，口(kou)銜天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)，東(dong)西橫(heng)亙2500余(yu)公(gong)(gong)里，南北寬度250至350公(gong)(gong)里。西起中哈邊境(jing)，東(dong)至星星峽，在(zai)我國(guo)境(jing)內(nei)綿(mian)延1700公(gong)(gong)里。整個天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)系由3列山(shan)(shan)脈組(zu)成，由北往(wang)南分別稱(cheng)為(wei)北天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)、中天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)和(he)南天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)。因山(shan)(shan)頂終年積雪又名(ming)“白(bai)山(shan)(shan)”，傳說(shuo)古匈奴(nu)人對該山(shan)(shan)敬若神明(ming)，每(mei)過山(shan)(shan)下必下馬膜(mo)拜(bai)，故被稱(cheng)為(wei)“天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)”。百科全(quan)書的(de)解釋，都統明(ming)亮：“見神池(chi)浩渺，如(ru)天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)鏡浮空　”，故名(ming)“天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)”。不知(zhi)何種(zhong)解釋為(wei)準。天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)位于新疆阜康縣境(jing)內(nei)北天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)中段(duan)的(de)博格多(duo)山(shan)(shan)北坡的(de)半山(shan)(shan)腰，東(dong)距烏魯木(mu)齊110公(gong)(gong)里，海拔1980米(mi)(mi)，是(shi)一個天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)然的(de)高(gao)山(shan)(shan)湖泊(bo)。湖面(mian)呈半月形，長3400米(mi)(mi)，最寬處約1500米(mi)(mi)，面(mian)積4.9平(ping)方公(gong)(gong)里，最深處約105米(mi)(mi)。湖水(shui)清澈，晶(jing)瑩如(ru)玉(yu)。四周群(qun)山(shan)(shan)環(huan)抱，綠草如(ru)茵(yin)，野(ye)花似錦(jin)。有“天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)山(shan)(shan)明(ming)珠”盛譽。挺拔、蒼翠的(de)云杉(shan)、塔松(song)，漫山(shan)(shan)遍(bian)嶺(ling)，遮(zhe)天(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)(tian)蔽日。可惜，我們來得(de)太早，湖面(mian)冰雪覆蓋，未能見識“清澈，晶(jing)瑩如(ru)玉(yu)的(de)湖水(shui)”，只有幾個游(you)客在(zai)湖邊的(de)冰上戲耍(shua)。

　　天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)共有(you)(you)三處水(shui)(shui)面(mian)(mian)，除主湖外，在東西(xi)(xi)(xi)兩(liang)側(ce)(ce)還有(you)(you)兩(liang)處水(shui)(shui)面(mian)(mian)，東側(ce)(ce)為(wei)東小(xiao)天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)，古名黑龍(long)潭(tan)，位(wei)于天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)東500米處，傳說(shuo)是(shi)西(xi)(xi)(xi)王母(mu)沐浴梳洗的地方，故又(you)有(you)(you)"梳洗澗"、"浴仙(xian)盆"之稱。潭(tan)下為(wei)百丈懸崖(ya)，有(you)(you)瀑(pu)(pu)布(bu)飛(fei)流直下，恰似一(yi)道長虹(hong)依天(tian)(tian)(tian)而降，煞是(shi)壯觀，幫(bang)成(cheng)一(yi)景(jing)日"懸泉瑤虹(hong)"。西(xi)(xi)(xi)側(ce)(ce)為(wei)西(xi)(xi)(xi)小(xiao)天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)，又(you)稱玉(yu)女潭(tan)，相傳為(wei)西(xi)(xi)(xi)王母(mu)洗腳處，位(wei)于天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)西(xi)(xi)(xi)北兩(liang)公里處。西(xi)(xi)(xi)小(xiao)天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)狀(zhuang)如(ru)圓月(yue)(yue)，池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)水(shui)(shui)清澈幽深，塔松環抱四周。如(ru)遇皓月(yue)(yue)當　空，靜影沉壁，清景(jing)無限，因而也(ye)(ye)得一(yi)景(jing)日："龍(long)潭(tan)碧(bi)月(yue)(yue)"。池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)側(ce)(ce)也(ye)(ye)飛(fei)掛一(yi)道瀑(pu)(pu)布(bu)，高數十米，如(ru)銀(yin)河落地，吐珠濺玉(yu)，景(jing)稱"玉(yu)帶(dai)銀(yin)簾"。池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)上有(you)(you)聞(wen)(wen)濤亭，登亭觀瀑(pu)(pu)別有(you)(you)情趣。眼可(ke)見簾卷(juan)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)濤，松翠水(shui)(shui)碧(bi);耳可(ke)聞(wen)(wen)水(shui)(shui)擊(ji)巖穿、聲震裂(lie)谷。(摘自新疆(jiang)旅(lv)游(you)觀光(guang)網)我們只到了西(xi)(xi)(xi)小(xiao)天(tian)(tian)(tian)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)，拍了小(xiao)瀑(pu)(pu)布(bu)。

　　看(kan)(kan)看(kan)(kan)時間尚早，還是下山出門拍胡楊(yang)樹。

　　拍(pai)完上路，上高速，轉216國道，直奔200公(gong)里(li)以外的五彩灣。第(di)一天的路程結束，從(cong)烏(wu)魯(lu)木齊(qi)到(dao)一號冰(bing)川是120公(gong)里(li)，來(lai)回240公(gong)里(li)，從(cong)烏(wu)魯(lu)木齊(qi)到(dao)天山約110公(gong)里(li)，天山到(dao)五彩灣200多公(gong)里(li)。基(ji)本上第(di)一天跑了(le)將近600公(gong)里(li)。